It’s not every day that a runway show makes you shout “Yes! I want to dress like a labyrinthine hedge!” but guess what – Mary Katrantzou’s Fall 2012 collection has done exactly that. Riding in on a tsunami of drah-mah and digital print, Katrantzou displayed her usual attention to form, artfully marrying rigidly structured shoulders and cinched waists with slouchy pants and billowing chiffon skirts. Peplums, corsets, funnel necks and godet skirts were there too, used as the vehicle for this season’s party princess to show off their prints: a veritable kaleidoscope of spoons, typewriters, unicorns, and pencils. The main departure from previous collections was the palette: while maintaining her usual all-inclusive approach, Katrantzou eschewed chromatic chaos for a more refined look, sticking almost to a single spin of the colour-wheel per garment (!). Indeed, some of the collection’s most striking dresses were those delicately rendered in beautifully muted hues of mushroom, ivory and baby blue. Think that will keep me away from the canary yellow pants? Think again.
All images via Style.com
London Fashion Week is taking off and Henry Holland is turning up the colour factor with his FW12 collection of clashing, tonally graded, pop-a-licious houndstooth separates and dresses. House of Holland started as a kitsch run of tongue in cheek tees, and Holland has retained the fun, irreverent personality of his early gimmicky gear whilst managing to also show that as a designer, he’s now a bit more grown up.
Holland’s houndstooth is not entirely original – remember Nicholas Ghersquiere’s flirtation with the iconic print for Balienciaga RTW SS11? – but card carrying hipsters all over take his say-so pretty seriously. So, slice it or dice it whichever way you want, looks like colour pop houndstooth is the G.O for this coming chilly season.
Show pics below.
Images via Style.com
She’s the new kid on the block, having only two collections under her belt, but Sophie Bille Brahe is making waves.
London based, Royal College of Arts graduate, Scandinavian heritage – it’s a recipe for design success. Bille Brahe is formally trained in goldsmithing, and so far has produced sophisticated, imaginative work. Her first collection featured miniature city landscapes formed into rings. The new collection, titled Cassiopeia, references constellations; there is a sense of delicacy and space that reflects the setting of the stars in the night sky. It’s quite beautiful.
Sophie Bille Brahe’s pieces are only available in Europe at present, so online is the way to go for the rest of the world.
Shop at Stylepaste or Colette.
All images via Sophie Bille Brahe
With NYFW done and dusted we’re taking a hop skip and jump across the pond to London where LFW has just kicked off. We’ll be posting all the thrills, spills, and dills from there later this week, but while we’re in town (yes, the UK in my mind…whatever), I thought it worthwhile to let y’all know about Charlotte Linton – creator of handsdown the most amazing prints I’ve seen this year (sorry Suno, that includes you). Charlotte is a London-based designer whose printed scarves leave us in paroxysms of delight. Her collection is based around the narrative of a fictional muse named Ermentrude, who travels the world in a swathe of colour. Ermantrude’s wanderings through far-flung locales such as Java and Madagascar provide the reference point for the whimsical and phantasmagorical images that are then printed on silk and wool scarves. You can follow Ermantrude’s travels (and check out Charlotte’s gorgeous illustrations) here. You can also buy pieces from here 2011 collaboration with Anthropologie here. But really – its all about the scarves, isn’t it? Check them out below (pssstt….are they perfect for turban-ing or what?) and head over to Charlotte’s website to order.
All images via http://www.charlottelinton.com
Proenza Schouler dream-team Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have done it again. Everyone’s going gaga over yesterday’s NYFW show, and fairenoughquiteright. Yet another edgy, original collection of covetable pieces.
Fall/Winter 2012 sees the Proenza Schouler girl donning oversized tops, asymmetrical origami mini skirts and jackets, and dresses and jackets with silk bird motifs. In keeping with their reputation for getting creative with textiles, the PS team avoided using cashmere or wool at all (quite a big task considering the season), instead experimenting with woven leather, stiff cotton, and quilted silk.
McCollough and Hernandez looked to the East for inspiration, referencing protective wear as their starting point. Kind of like ‘Asian Fashion Assassin’ girl? Or, ‘You Can Look But Only At My Wrapping’ girl? Whatever, the quilted bird motifed jacket that Hanne Gaby Odiele wore is MINE in my head, I’ve imagined myself wearing it 5 different ways so far.
Gettaload of this (below).
Images via Style.com and WhoWhatWear
Bag lady chic takes on a 21st century sheen with Marc Jacobs’ FW12 mangled ode to style icon Anna Piaggi. Eye-popping brocades, fur of all colours in enormous volume, sparkly shoes, and chunky knits. The silhouette is bulky, made up of structured jackets and padded hips – the effect is that of a seven year old playing dress ups with mum’s wardrobe. The colours are all over the shop, the prints clashing and vibrant, with traditional overtones.
As is often the case with Marc Jacobs’ runway shows, the focus is on theme, not so much wearability (key looks will be re-worked for retail). Translate this trend to everyday wear by making light of dressing.
Matching? Bah, what of it? Look out for key winter pieces:
- bulky, coloured outerwear
- a few printed pieces to work back with coloured knits, e.g. heavily patterned shirt, a printed pant and a skirt that sits below the knee
- chunky (and I mean CHUNKY) knits in bold colours, particularly ones that can be wrapped around or layered up
- an ironic piece that Grandma made … felting, appliqué, shoe clips … so long as it’s bold (we’re not going for “festival-vintage-hipster” here)
Basically, throw Coco Chanel’s ‘take one thing off before you leave the house’ rule to the dogs. More is more. Ms Piaggi as Muse.
All images via Style.com and The Sartorialist
New York Fashion Week is in full swing! I don’t usually get so giddy at this stage of the fashion week gambit, as the NY line up tends to be too over-structured and preppy for my liking (Alexander Wang excepted). But HOLD THAT, Joseph Altuzarra is having a moment – a big, fat, hip-o-meter dinger of a moment.
Lilting luvvie Lana Del Rey loves Altuzarra so much she’s accompanying him as his date to fashion’s biggest event, the Met Gala. Oracle of cool, Apples Ryan (denim designer and trend forecaster at Ksubi) named him as her one to watch for 2012. Vanity Fair picked Altuzarra’s FW2012 outing as one of the top 3 shows of the week. Convinced already?
Velvet, Morrocan prints and killer furs featured heavily in his seminal FW12 collection. My favourites – patterned velvet pants, cream knitted jacket-dress with embroidery and fur trimming, green velvet jacket, a black and white coat which I have dubbed the Cruella De Vil, and the jaw-dropping thigh high tasselled boots. Early adopters, take note:
All images via style.com