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Designer: OLIVIER ROUSTEING AT BALMAIN

5 Mar

It’s been a while since I’ve LOVED a Balmain show, but Olivier Rousteing’s FW12 collection, shown in Paris last week, grabbed me. Rousteing is quoted as saying that Fabergé eggs were the inspiration behind the heavy embellishment on velvet pants, leather jackets, stretchy dresses, and pretty much everything else. I also have a love affair with velvet, stemming from my acquisition, at the age of twelve, of a black velvet jacket with matching bootleg pants. I was so sad to grow out of them (don’t you miss the days you grew up instead of out?). Well in this collection the velvet is in abundance – quilted jacketing, slinky pants, flowy pants, embellished pants, you name it, it comes in velvet. The Karlie Kloss outfit is easy-cool (which every fashion-head looks to Balmain for) and I’ve got tickets on Aymeline Valade’s teal green leather shirt, gold belt and matching velvet pants.

Aren’t the eggs exquisite? I’m thinking, I want an engagement egg instead of an engagement ring. Or maybe an engagement egg and an engagement quilted green Balmain jacket? I reckon that’s fair. I’ll ask for the ring for Christmas.

Cx

Images via Daily Art Fix and Style.com

Designer: ANTHONY VACCARELLO

2 Mar

Désolé! Désolé! We two have been tardy on the posting front and for my part, I blame it on French. The language, not the cuisine (nothing could come between moi and a buttery croissant). Mais oui, I am learning! Such a thrilling language to roll off the tongue, though ’tis mostly getting stuck in my throat these first few weeks.

And so, while  Z will have to proffer her own excuse (kidnapping? food poisoning?) I hope we can put my absence behind us and focus on more important things like world peace fashun.

Let us decamp to Paris then, for Paris Fashion Week! We shall begin with a POP QUIZ:

Q: How do you spell “sex”?

A:  A.N.T.H.O.N.Y  V.A.C.C.A.R.E.L.L.O

Q: Anthony who?

A: Vaccarello. He’s Belgian and has shown a total of four international shows ev-ah. His woman is sex, she is strength, she’s a fox and she knows it.

Q: Who gives?

A: Everyone who counts. Style.com says ” Vaccarello is on his way to building himself a brand.” Vogue.com says his SS12 show was “sensational,” but this latest turn shows “a new level of maturity.” KK (aka Karlie Kloss, aka Legs-That-Go-Forever) chose Vaccarello as her first major international show to walk in this season. Write this down!

Q: Fall 2012 collection need to know points?

A: 90’s glamour sheaths, military jackets and trenches with skintight pants in deep blue satin, and 1950’s lingerie inspired cut out detailing. Hems so high they’re a bit a’hem. Made for Glamazons with no spare body fat (Put the chocolate peanuts down. Now step away. Well done.)  Shoe collaboration with Giuseppe Zanotti causing a kamikaze catwalk moment.

Tough gig choosing the best looks. Here’s my edit – mainly just leaving out the ones where the hem was so short I was temporarily blinded.

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Images via Style.com

LFW: MARY KATRANTZOU

23 Feb

It’s not every day that a runway show makes you shout “Yes! I want to dress like a labyrinthine hedge!” but guess what – Mary Katrantzou’s Fall 2012 collection has done exactly that. Riding in on a tsunami of drah-mah and digital print, Katrantzou displayed her usual attention to form, artfully marrying rigidly structured shoulders and cinched waists with slouchy pants and billowing chiffon skirts. Peplums, corsets, funnel necks and godet skirts were there too, used as the vehicle for this season’s party princess to show off their prints: a veritable kaleidoscope of spoons, typewriters, unicorns, and pencils. The main departure from previous collections was the palette: while maintaining her usual all-inclusive approach, Katrantzou eschewed chromatic chaos for a more refined look, sticking almost to a single spin of the colour-wheel per garment (!). Indeed, some of the collection’s most striking dresses were those delicately rendered in beautifully muted hues of mushroom, ivory and baby blue. Think that will keep me away from the canary yellow pants? Think again.

Z x

All images via Style.com

Designer: SOPHIE BILLE BRAHE

20 Feb

She’s the new kid on the block, having only two collections under her belt, but Sophie Bille Brahe is making waves.

London based, Royal College of Arts graduate, Scandinavian heritage – it’s a recipe for design success. Bille Brahe is formally trained in goldsmithing, and so far has produced sophisticated, imaginative work. Her first collection featured miniature city landscapes formed into rings. The new collection, titled Cassiopeia, references constellations; there is a sense of delicacy and space that reflects the setting of the stars in the night sky. It’s quite beautiful.

Sophie Bille Brahe’s pieces are only available in Europe at present, so online is the way to go for the rest of the world.

Shop at Stylepaste or Colette.

Cx

All images via Sophie Bille Brahe

Designer: CHARLOTTE LINTON

18 Feb

With NYFW done and dusted we’re taking a hop skip and jump across the pond to London where LFW has just kicked off. We’ll be posting all the thrills, spills, and dills from there later this week, but while we’re in town (yes, the UK in my mind…whatever), I thought it worthwhile to let y’all know about Charlotte Linton – creator of handsdown the most amazing prints I’ve seen this year (sorry Suno, that includes you).  Charlotte is a London-based designer whose printed scarves leave us in paroxysms of delight. Her collection is based around the narrative of a fictional muse named Ermentrude, who travels the world in a swathe of colour. Ermantrude’s wanderings  through far-flung locales such as Java and Madagascar provide the reference point for the whimsical and phantasmagorical images that are then printed on silk and wool scarves. You can follow Ermantrude’s travels (and check out Charlotte’s gorgeous illustrations) here. You can also buy pieces from here 2011 collaboration with Anthropologie here.  But really – its all about the scarves, isn’t it? Check them out below (pssstt….are they perfect for turban-ing or what?) and head over to Charlotte’s website to order.

Zxx

All images via http://www.charlottelinton.com

Designer: PROENZA SCHOULER

17 Feb

Proenza Schouler dream-team Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have done it again. Everyone’s going gaga over yesterday’s NYFW show, and fairenoughquiteright. Yet another edgy, original collection of covetable pieces.

Fall/Winter 2012 sees the Proenza Schouler girl donning oversized tops, asymmetrical origami mini skirts and jackets, and dresses and jackets with silk bird motifs.  In keeping with their reputation for getting creative with textiles, the PS team avoided using cashmere or wool at all (quite a big task considering the season), instead experimenting with woven leather, stiff cotton, and quilted silk.

McCollough and Hernandez looked to the East for inspiration, referencing protective wear as their starting point. Kind of like ‘Asian Fashion Assassin’ girl? Or, ‘You Can Look But Only At My Wrapping’ girl? Whatever, the quilted bird motifed jacket that Hanne Gaby Odiele wore is MINE in my head, I’ve imagined myself wearing it 5 different ways so far.

Gettaload of this (below).

Cx

Images via Style.com and WhoWhatWear 

Designer: JOSEPH ALTUZARRA

15 Feb

New York Fashion Week is in full swing! I don’t usually get so giddy at this stage of the fashion week gambit, as the NY line up tends to be too over-structured and preppy for my liking (Alexander Wang excepted). But HOLD THAT, Joseph Altuzarra is having a moment – a big, fat, hip-o-meter dinger of a moment.

Lilting luvvie Lana Del Rey loves Altuzarra so much she’s accompanying him as his date to fashion’s biggest event, the Met Gala. Oracle of cool, Apples Ryan (denim designer and trend forecaster at Ksubi) named him as her one to watch for 2012. Vanity Fair picked Altuzarra’s FW2012 outing as one of the top 3 shows of the week. Convinced already?

Velvet, Morrocan prints and killer furs featured heavily in his seminal FW12 collection.  My favourites – patterned velvet pants, cream knitted jacket-dress with embroidery and fur trimming, green velvet jacket, a black and white coat which I have dubbed the Cruella De Vil, and the jaw-dropping thigh high tasselled boots. Early adopters, take note:

All images via style.com

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