It’s been a while since I’ve LOVED a Balmain show, but Olivier Rousteing’s FW12 collection, shown in Paris last week, grabbed me. Rousteing is quoted as saying that Fabergé eggs were the inspiration behind the heavy embellishment on velvet pants, leather jackets, stretchy dresses, and pretty much everything else. I also have a love affair with velvet, stemming from my acquisition, at the age of twelve, of a black velvet jacket with matching bootleg pants. I was so sad to grow out of them (don’t you miss the days you grew up instead of out?). Well in this collection the velvet is in abundance – quilted jacketing, slinky pants, flowy pants, embellished pants, you name it, it comes in velvet. The Karlie Kloss outfit is easy-cool (which every fashion-head looks to Balmain for) and I’ve got tickets on Aymeline Valade’s teal green leather shirt, gold belt and matching velvet pants.
Aren’t the eggs exquisite? I’m thinking, I want an engagement egg instead of an engagement ring. Or maybe an engagement egg and an engagement quilted green Balmain jacket? I reckon that’s fair. I’ll ask for the ring for Christmas.
Images via Daily Art Fix and Style.com
London Fashion Week is taking off and Henry Holland is turning up the colour factor with his FW12 collection of clashing, tonally graded, pop-a-licious houndstooth separates and dresses. House of Holland started as a kitsch run of tongue in cheek tees, and Holland has retained the fun, irreverent personality of his early gimmicky gear whilst managing to also show that as a designer, he’s now a bit more grown up.
Holland’s houndstooth is not entirely original – remember Nicholas Ghersquiere’s flirtation with the iconic print for Balienciaga RTW SS11? – but card carrying hipsters all over take his say-so pretty seriously. So, slice it or dice it whichever way you want, looks like colour pop houndstooth is the G.O for this coming chilly season.
Show pics below.
Images via Style.com
Proenza Schouler dream-team Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have done it again. Everyone’s going gaga over yesterday’s NYFW show, and fairenoughquiteright. Yet another edgy, original collection of covetable pieces.
Fall/Winter 2012 sees the Proenza Schouler girl donning oversized tops, asymmetrical origami mini skirts and jackets, and dresses and jackets with silk bird motifs. In keeping with their reputation for getting creative with textiles, the PS team avoided using cashmere or wool at all (quite a big task considering the season), instead experimenting with woven leather, stiff cotton, and quilted silk.
McCollough and Hernandez looked to the East for inspiration, referencing protective wear as their starting point. Kind of like ‘Asian Fashion Assassin’ girl? Or, ‘You Can Look But Only At My Wrapping’ girl? Whatever, the quilted bird motifed jacket that Hanne Gaby Odiele wore is MINE in my head, I’ve imagined myself wearing it 5 different ways so far.
Gettaload of this (below).
Images via Style.com and WhoWhatWear
Bag lady chic takes on a 21st century sheen with Marc Jacobs’ FW12 mangled ode to style icon Anna Piaggi. Eye-popping brocades, fur of all colours in enormous volume, sparkly shoes, and chunky knits. The silhouette is bulky, made up of structured jackets and padded hips – the effect is that of a seven year old playing dress ups with mum’s wardrobe. The colours are all over the shop, the prints clashing and vibrant, with traditional overtones.
As is often the case with Marc Jacobs’ runway shows, the focus is on theme, not so much wearability (key looks will be re-worked for retail). Translate this trend to everyday wear by making light of dressing.
Matching? Bah, what of it? Look out for key winter pieces:
- bulky, coloured outerwear
- a few printed pieces to work back with coloured knits, e.g. heavily patterned shirt, a printed pant and a skirt that sits below the knee
- chunky (and I mean CHUNKY) knits in bold colours, particularly ones that can be wrapped around or layered up
- an ironic piece that Grandma made … felting, appliqué, shoe clips … so long as it’s bold (we’re not going for “festival-vintage-hipster” here)
Basically, throw Coco Chanel’s ‘take one thing off before you leave the house’ rule to the dogs. More is more. Ms Piaggi as Muse.
All images via Style.com and The Sartorialist
New York Fashion Week is in full swing! I don’t usually get so giddy at this stage of the fashion week gambit, as the NY line up tends to be too over-structured and preppy for my liking (Alexander Wang excepted). But HOLD THAT, Joseph Altuzarra is having a moment – a big, fat, hip-o-meter dinger of a moment.
Lilting luvvie Lana Del Rey loves Altuzarra so much she’s accompanying him as his date to fashion’s biggest event, the Met Gala. Oracle of cool, Apples Ryan (denim designer and trend forecaster at Ksubi) named him as her one to watch for 2012. Vanity Fair picked Altuzarra’s FW2012 outing as one of the top 3 shows of the week. Convinced already?
Velvet, Morrocan prints and killer furs featured heavily in his seminal FW12 collection. My favourites – patterned velvet pants, cream knitted jacket-dress with embroidery and fur trimming, green velvet jacket, a black and white coat which I have dubbed the Cruella De Vil, and the jaw-dropping thigh high tasselled boots. Early adopters, take note:
All images via style.com